Costa Rica 2018
Much like UK summer, UK winter is prime time not to be in the UK. After counting down through most of the year, November finally arrived and once more heralded the chance to escape to warmer climates. Central America had, until this point, somehow remained unseen by my eyes, so Jill, Paul and I decided that Costa Rica would be our destination. Faced with a range of localised seasons and climates, we researched a few spots in advance and then just decided to go for it and see what we could spot.
As per usual with my ramblings, I like to begin with some sort of airline-based comment or review, so step forward Air France (Paris to San Jose), and the most cramped and outdated 777 I’ve ever been on. Crikey, the less said about it the better…18 or so hours after leaving Newcastle we picked up our Ssangyong (apparently with 4x4 capabilities), were immediately beeped at as we pulled out into Alajuela traffic, and headed the short distance to a local hotel for geckos and bed.
As per usual with my ramblings, I like to begin with some sort of airline-based comment or review, so step forward Air France (Paris to San Jose), and the most cramped and outdated 777 I’ve ever been on. Crikey, the less said about it the better…18 or so hours after leaving Newcastle we picked up our Ssangyong (apparently with 4x4 capabilities), were immediately beeped at as we pulled out into Alajuela traffic, and headed the short distance to a local hotel for geckos and bed.
La Fortuna / Arenal 3x nights
Gallo pinto awaited in the morning as Rufous-naped wrens cockily pinched breakfast from birders on a neighbouring table.
Stop one was primarily for some relaxation with a side of ornithology (with fingers crossed for an additional side of herpetology) – we’d found a splendid house complete with garden and rocking chairs and that’s where we found ourselves a couple of hours after leaving Alajuela.
This place was all about the garden, which came with numerous fruit trees allowing us to skewer bananas on to a closer branch to entice in locals of the feathered variety. The ‘caretaker’ Lorenzo would also stop by to replenish banana supplies from time to time, ensuring that there was always a bird or two to observe
Stop one was primarily for some relaxation with a side of ornithology (with fingers crossed for an additional side of herpetology) – we’d found a splendid house complete with garden and rocking chairs and that’s where we found ourselves a couple of hours after leaving Alajuela.
This place was all about the garden, which came with numerous fruit trees allowing us to skewer bananas on to a closer branch to entice in locals of the feathered variety. The ‘caretaker’ Lorenzo would also stop by to replenish banana supplies from time to time, ensuring that there was always a bird or two to observe
With a fair bit of rain, photography was a wee bit tricky – so most of the highlights are video-based. Some of the species observed here included: Black-cowled oriole, Blue-gray tanager, Broad-billed(?) motmot, Buff-throated(?) Saltator, Clay-coloured thrush, Golden-hooded tanager, Great kiskadee, Green honeycreeper, Grey-headed chachalaca, Hoffman’s(?) woodpecker, Northern oriole, Orange-chinned parakeet, Palm tanager, Passerini’s(?) tanager, Red-legged honeycreeper, Summer tanager, Yellow-throated euphonia and many others...
Being a fan of National Parks (actual National Parks, not the ecologically devoid UK namesakes), we had a couple of visits to Arenal. Our first outing produced the first snakes of the trip, firstly an Eyelash viper (Bothriechis schlegelii) followed fairly swiftly by a Short-nosed vine snake (Oxybelis brevirostris). In between we also clocked a foraging Coati and admired the other visitors’ ability to absolutely power-walk past pretty much any creature of interest.
On returning to the house, Lorenzo, carrying a white bucket, popped up to see us – it seemed that a Red coffee snake (Ninia sebae) had turned up and, knowing we were fans, he’d brought it along for us! After a couple of sub-par photographs we returned it to the spot it had been found. That afternoon Lorenzo also took us to some land owned by his family – this was an ex-cattle farm of around 4ha currently being re-wilded with waterbodies and trees. We had a quick stroll around in the fading light, spotting Jacanas, a Caracara and a Ringed kingfisher. We gave Lorenzo an approving nod and said we’d return the following night with torches to see what else may be lurking about.
The morning provided us with a couple of Two-toed sloths near the house, one of which appeared to have a little youngster clinging to its belly. A brief stroll around the neighbourhood provided a King vulture thermalling along with the more familiar Turkeys and Blacks, a roadside ditch filled with energised young basilisks, and a passing Osprey. At the Peninsula area of Arenal we added a second species of toucan for the trip as ‘Keel-billed’ joined ‘Chestnut-mandibled’ on our list. Montezuma’s oropendulas made their bizarre calls as numerous ameivas scuttled through the leaf-litter. No snakes appeared during daylight hours, but on returning to Lorenzo’s land that evening we immediately spotted a Barred forest racer (Dendrophidion percarinatum) followed by two Clouded slug eaters (Sibon nebulatus).
The final morning at La Fortuna provided some awesome views of Collared aracaris, then it was time to hit the road to Yatama and the Braulio Carrillo National Park.
Yatama / Braulio Carrillo 4x nights
We drove the SSangyong to Horquetas where we stopped for another giant lunch and waited for another spell of intense rainfall to pass. Our route from here involved following a dirt road for around 8km, although our contact, Pedro, had been in touch to say that some bridges may have been washed away. Not knowing how far we’d get, we put our trust in the Ssangyong and left the paved roads behind. Crossing two rickety suspension bridges barely wide enough for South Korea’s finest SUV, we wondered if these were the bridges in question and that there’d be no further trouble ahead. Barely five minutes of suspension-shattering progress later, a far superior off-roader appeared from the opposite direction with Pedro at the helm. We turned around and left the SSangyong in parking lot B, threw our kit into Pedro’s actual 4x4, and proceeded to barrel up a boulder-strewn and mud-covered ‘track’ that our car would have had zero chance of survival along.
We then had an hour or so of daylight to explore the surroundings, returning back to the lodge just as daylight had vanished and the first Red-eyed tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) had made themselves known around the pond by the lodge. Paulo also spotted an out of reach snake in the foliage which initially seemed to have thrown us the disappearing act - until Jill rescued the situation and re-found the critter which turned out to be a ‘drab snail eater’ (Sibon longifrenis).
We then feasted like kings, as is the norm at Yatama (seriously, the food here is amazing!), before heading out for an evening wander. The awesome frog species count was soon added to with a Triprion spinosus, or ‘Crowned tree frog’ as it may or may not also be called.
Later on we spotted a fairly sizeable coral snake (Micrurus mosquitensis) heading off into some marshy ground. Sacrificing a welly boot and one of my finest socks, we had corralled the coral into a small patch of leaf litter, carefully coaxing it out onto the path for Paulo to shoot some video before it returned into the litter and out of sight. As we celebrated seeing such an awesome snake, we checked the footage only to find the camera had picked that moment to malfunction, leaving us with a few seconds of blooper reel that I’ll have to just try to squeeze into the video montage.
Next morning Paulo had a senior moment as he continued to complain about the lack of charge in his batteries, only to later discover that he was trying to recharge non-rechargeables. Good lad. Above our heads, howler monkeys called as we set out to try to find a Spilotes, but the heavy rain had swelled one of the rivers beyond crossing point and we were forced to turn back, checking our night route options as we went. That evening would provide a couple of mossy coloured eyelash vipers and a pretty large Turnip-tailed gecko (Thecadactylus rapicauda).
With a new day came receding water levels, enabling us to make it across the river for a failed Spilotes and Drymobius search. The day then turned wet, but we managed to find a couple of Rainforest hog-nosed pit vipers (Porthidium nasatum) between downpours, including a cracking spot by Paulo which I could barely see even when he pointed it out.
The evening activities kicked-off pretty quickly with a Common blunt-headed tree snake (Imantodes cenchoa) – these curious and gangly guys would become our most frequently spotted snake (along with Eyelash vipers and S.nebulatus).
Walking the road bordering Braulio Carillo produced a pair of nightjars flittering from our feet as we headed along, as well as a freakishly large white spider of the nightmare sort. This guy was just sitting on a leaf (which it filled) facing the park road. I’m not entirely sure what it’s plan for the evening was, but I assume its aim was to catch a Puma or passing 4x4.
After a solid few hours of walking with few results, we were almost back at the lodge when we spotted the comforting coils of a sleeping snake, this one being a Satiny parrot snake (Leptophis depressirostris) sporting eyes in which a herper could get lost in.
After a solid few hours of walking with few results, we were almost back at the lodge when we spotted the comforting coils of a sleeping snake, this one being a Satiny parrot snake (Leptophis depressirostris) sporting eyes in which a herper could get lost in.
Our last full day at Yatama called for another foray further afield, again scouring different habitat types for the racers and rats that we (two of us) craved. An historical bushmaster location also came out negative. This would not be our day, although we did spot another P.nasatum deep in apparent bushmaster territory.
Later in the afternoon we chilled on the balcony as Paul brought out some refreshments he’d purchased earlier. A cool beer perhaps? Fanta limon? Nope, how about a carton of ‘Jumex’…
Later in the afternoon we chilled on the balcony as Paul brought out some refreshments he’d purchased earlier. A cool beer perhaps? Fanta limon? Nope, how about a carton of ‘Jumex’…
That night we added another I.cenchoa and two more Eyelash vipers, but the highlight would have to be the Annulated tree boa (Corallus annulatus) on a branch hanging over our trail. Interestingly, I’d seen some eyeshine on the branch from about 30m away, making this the first snake I’d ever experienced this with.
The following morning we had another substantial desayuno before taking the 4x4 rollercoaster downhill to be reunited with the Ssangyong. We said our farewells to Pedro and headed off to Siquirres.
The following morning we had another substantial desayuno before taking the 4x4 rollercoaster downhill to be reunited with the Ssangyong. We said our farewells to Pedro and headed off to Siquirres.
CRARC 2x nights
“Dedicated to the Biological Research and Conservation of Costa Rican Amphibians”
Brian’s place is awesome! Heading out for a few hours of afternoon wandering we checked every fallen tree, every buttress and everything in between hoping for some sort of large, cryptically-coloured viper. As is often the case when creeping around, it was birds that we ended up creeping upon first, these included a juvenile Tiger heron and a Green ibis. On our return back to the guest house Paulo finally got us off the mark with one of the landmine species we’d been looking for, the Terciopelo (Bothrops asper).
That evening we retraced our daytime steps, returning to all the streams and ponds in the hope of frogs and snakes. Barely a minute after leaving the house we encountered a Banded coffee snake (Ninia maculata) on the road.
As usual, headtorches provided much better eyeshine, revealing countless numbers of delightful Gliding tree frogs (Agalychnis spurrelli) crowded around every pond. A cabin in the woods (with a huge tarantula on the wall) later provided a Northern cat-eyed snake (Leptodeira septentrionalis), ensuring that the snake and frog lovers all went home happy.
As usual, headtorches provided much better eyeshine, revealing countless numbers of delightful Gliding tree frogs (Agalychnis spurrelli) crowded around every pond. A cabin in the woods (with a huge tarantula on the wall) later provided a Northern cat-eyed snake (Leptodeira septentrionalis), ensuring that the snake and frog lovers all went home happy.
The following day we had a longer walk around Brian’s place, largely in the rain, and didn’t really manage to see too much. We had a bit of a chat with Brian and agreed on some spots to check later that night – hopefully to target some glass frogs (and anything else we might be lucky enough to encounter). After a meal of spaghetti, tomato sauce and tinned peas (which Paul and Jill both described as sensational), we met up with Brian and shortly found ourselves walking down a stream looking into (and listening to) the surrounding vegetation. It obviously goes without saying that this man knows his stuff, so it wasn’t long before we’d seen a Rufous-eyed stream frog (Duellmanohyla rufioculis), Palmer’s tree frogs (Hyloscirtus palmeri), Masked tree frogs (Smilisca phaeota) and what may or may not have been Teratohyla spinosa.
Jill then clocked a delightful little Eyelash viper that most of us had walked past, and an hour later Paulo spotted a Red-ringed snail eater (Sibon annulatus) that all of us had walked past.
Leaving the stream, we thanked Brian for his time and wisdom, then parted ways. Now armed with a dangerously impressive knowledge of the local amphibian species, we ventured on, further into the night.
Along a section of path where the heat and humidity seemed to really pick up, we stumbled upon a nice little biodiversity hotspot. Firstly, Paul kicked things off with one of the most awesome frogs on our planet - Cruziohyla sylviae.
Along a section of path where the heat and humidity seemed to really pick up, we stumbled upon a nice little biodiversity hotspot. Firstly, Paul kicked things off with one of the most awesome frogs on our planet - Cruziohyla sylviae.
I then found some tadpoles and was just making the comment that these could be a favourite food of L.septentrionalis when one of those snakes just happened to appear.
Jill then spotted a cracking frog on a leaf barely a metre away - this would turn out to be the Lemur leaf frog (Agalychnis lemur). During all of this we were under the gaze of at least one red-eyed tree frog which had unexpectedly found itself out of favour given the stature of its neighbours!
Jill then spotted a cracking frog on a leaf barely a metre away - this would turn out to be the Lemur leaf frog (Agalychnis lemur). During all of this we were under the gaze of at least one red-eyed tree frog which had unexpectedly found itself out of favour given the stature of its neighbours!
Kekoldi 2x nights
Our journey continued southeast towards the Caribbean, passing the container-haven which is Limon before following the coastline towards Cahuita. We stopped for lunch at a soda in ‘Hone Creek’ where I had a mountain of arroz con pollo, Paulo ate a few kilos of empanada, and Jillo was truly delighted with her Baywatch swim float-sized sandwich - never before has a toast-lined pile of chicken, beans and cheese been so revered.
In a communications mix-up with our host Sebastian, we found ourselves trekking uphill for the best part of 2km with pretty much all our worldly possessions stuffed into our rucksacks. We probably could have skipped up there with a daysack and toothbrush, so I’ll not be making the same mistake next time! Once K2 had been conquered, Sebastian showed us around his castle in the trees, pointing to various locations where Spilotes had showed up in the past and regaling us with stories of his latest bushmaster encounter as the drums of the indigenous reserve echoed into the evening.
In a communications mix-up with our host Sebastian, we found ourselves trekking uphill for the best part of 2km with pretty much all our worldly possessions stuffed into our rucksacks. We probably could have skipped up there with a daysack and toothbrush, so I’ll not be making the same mistake next time! Once K2 had been conquered, Sebastian showed us around his castle in the trees, pointing to various locations where Spilotes had showed up in the past and regaling us with stories of his latest bushmaster encounter as the drums of the indigenous reserve echoed into the evening.
Oophaga pumilio were out in force, these ones being completely red unlike their blue-trousered upland cousins. A number of Dendrobates auratus were also seen knocking about here, with both of these poison dart species being pretty active and not so fond of our presence. A night of limited highlights provided another I.cenchoa, a few yellow-headed geckos (Gonatodes albogularis) and a number of what I believe to be reticulated glass frogs (Hyalinobatrachium valerioi) guarding their spawn.
Rain greeted us the following morning as many white-collared swifts swooped through the trees by the lodge, so much rain in fact that we ended up calling off our morning stroll in favour of relaxing in the hammocks and trying to read up on the species we’d encountered so far. Sometimes, as is often the case with non-herpers, the herps will come to you, so it was a nice surprise when a Brown vine snake (Oxybelis aeneus) decided to show up.
That afternoon we headed out with Sebastian to check a trail he had planned to walk later that night. However, there had been a number of landslips and fallen trees, so the ‘walk’ turned into more of a path maintenance job. We managed to spot a gold-phase, or ‘oropel’, Eyelash viper in addition to another I.cenchoa, but ultimately the slow-going of re-finding the path and the hazardous nature of this trail meant that we voted against returning in the evening. Instead we returned to the same stream as the night before,
finding two more I.cenchoa and a
Salmon-bellied racer (Mastigodryas
melanolomus) before throwing in the towel.
The following morning, after over-indulging on some fried bread with maple syrup, we made our way back down to Hone Creek where we said our goodbyes to Sebastian. Before hitting the road, we watched a remarkable raptor migration overhead as thousands of vultures were joined by Broad-winged hawks (and others) and the odd stork, all swirling and slowly making their way south.
Manzanillo 2x nights
Pelicans and frigate birds welcomed us to the Caribbean coast, as did a pretty amazing house and garden…
We had a bit of an explore around Manzanillo and Puerto Viejo (where I was offered some ‘best blow’ from a roadside dreadlocked gent) before returning to the garden for a bit of night searching, where raccoons and a Clouded slugeater (S.nebulatus) awaited.
Our final full day started with a wander into the wildlife refuge
from Punta Manzanillo before returning to Puerto Viejo to seek lunch. We found
it in the form of ‘De Gustibus’ – ah man this place was amazing!
Paul and I returned to the Gandoca Wildlife Refuge in late afternoon, walking a few trails then waiting for darkness to fall before retracing our steps. Plenty of frogs turned up but we were unable to add to our total of 17 snake species for the trip. We did however manage to spot another 3 S.nebulatus before returning to our hammocks with some chilled Imperial in hand.
Paul and I returned to the Gandoca Wildlife Refuge in late afternoon, walking a few trails then waiting for darkness to fall before retracing our steps. Plenty of frogs turned up but we were unable to add to our total of 17 snake species for the trip. We did however manage to spot another 3 S.nebulatus before returning to our hammocks with some chilled Imperial in hand.
Unfortunately, the time had now come for us to return. The Ssangyong was once again packed and we made our way back towards Alajuela. Before reaching San Jose, the road runs through the forested slopes of Braulio Carillo National Park, where hills partly hidden by cloud made me wish for more time to explore.
Nowhere in the UK can I experience actual wild, natural habitat, yet here I was, just outside of a capital city, with misty rainforest to either side and not one single new-build housing estate, sheep-grazed field or managed grouse moor in sight. Costa Rica is roughly a quarter the size of Great Britain, with National Parks and protected areas reportedly covering 25% of its land area. There are areas I visited (and many others that I did not) that truly put Britain, my home, to shame. Costa Rica, hasta luego!
Nowhere in the UK can I experience actual wild, natural habitat, yet here I was, just outside of a capital city, with misty rainforest to either side and not one single new-build housing estate, sheep-grazed field or managed grouse moor in sight. Costa Rica is roughly a quarter the size of Great Britain, with National Parks and protected areas reportedly covering 25% of its land area. There are areas I visited (and many others that I did not) that truly put Britain, my home, to shame. Costa Rica, hasta luego!
With thanks to:
Paul Rowntree - https://paulrowntree.wixsite.com/herpsandthings/blog & https://www.instagram.com/paulorowntree/
Pablo Deschepper - http://wildpablo.wixsite.com/naturephotography?fbclid=IwAR1S__Z48qZvr-odXN2ocHmfvCsi-xzxjQVSgspfrDQ-f9TUmHfIm4Xass0
Kevin Esser - http://natura-rica.blogspot.com/
Gerrit Jan Vespui - https://www.gertjanverspui.com/
Paul Rowntree - https://paulrowntree.wixsite.com/herpsandthings/blog & https://www.instagram.com/paulorowntree/
Pablo Deschepper - http://wildpablo.wixsite.com/naturephotography?fbclid=IwAR1S__Z48qZvr-odXN2ocHmfvCsi-xzxjQVSgspfrDQ-f9TUmHfIm4Xass0
Kevin Esser - http://natura-rica.blogspot.com/
Gerrit Jan Vespui - https://www.gertjanverspui.com/