Cádiz, July 2022
Some would call it a rocket-run, some a mini-break, whilst others would probably just scratch their heads wondering why to choose such a hot (and windy- more on that later) time of year to spend only a few days looking for snakes. I’m not sure what I’d call it, but it involved being out of the UK, so that was good enough for me. Our friends Euan and Carmen would be our hosts and tour guides for the duration, so this provided the added bonus that I didn’t need to spend hours Google-Earthing an itinerary of locations. Jill and I were already expecting tricky conditions at this time of the year, but as we are usually the bringers of unseasonal weather we were also predicting an additional curveball – and this came in the form of strong winds which remained throughout our visit, and by all accounts continued to gust through the province for days after we left.
I’ll keep this brief. Mainly because the visit was brief. And also because we didn’t see that much stuff. And also because I didn’t photograph most of the things we did see. Of course, I’ll also not say exactly where we went as most places we visited had been discovered by our hosts and are not up for public discussion. So to conclude: brief.
I’ll keep this brief. Mainly because the visit was brief. And also because we didn’t see that much stuff. And also because I didn’t photograph most of the things we did see. Of course, I’ll also not say exactly where we went as most places we visited had been discovered by our hosts and are not up for public discussion. So to conclude: brief.
Day 1
Arrival in Malaga with a quick search around our usual hunting grounds. There was heavy machinery moving earth around along one of the better snake-spotting paths, so we didn’t hang about too long. We spotted the usual suspects here including Moorish gecko, pond terrapin and Vaucher’s wall lizard, plus some familiar feathered friends including European bee-eater, white-headed duck, black-winged stilt and spoonbill.
On towards a coastal spot going by the local name of ‘Board Kingdom’ (a name known by about 5 people) where snakes had been leaving their shirts but not staying around to say hello. Starting to feel the effects of a 4am start, we headed to base camp in south-central Cadiz where an unexpected tiny Malpolon escaped at speed from a flipped board during a token windy night wander.
Arrival in Malaga with a quick search around our usual hunting grounds. There was heavy machinery moving earth around along one of the better snake-spotting paths, so we didn’t hang about too long. We spotted the usual suspects here including Moorish gecko, pond terrapin and Vaucher’s wall lizard, plus some familiar feathered friends including European bee-eater, white-headed duck, black-winged stilt and spoonbill.
On towards a coastal spot going by the local name of ‘Board Kingdom’ (a name known by about 5 people) where snakes had been leaving their shirts but not staying around to say hello. Starting to feel the effects of a 4am start, we headed to base camp in south-central Cadiz where an unexpected tiny Malpolon escaped at speed from a flipped board during a token windy night wander.
Day 2
We left the house at a reasonable hour only to be greeted by insanely strong winds as we checked out the rocky sides of a nearby reservoir. A failed attempt at an Ocellated lizard spot followed, although we glimpsed a Bedriaga’s skink after being treated to some amazing views of a squadron of Griffon vultures. Other raptors making an appearance included Short-toed eagles, Booted eagles and Black kites - plus a few suspected lesser kestrels messing about together above one of the few restaurants that served non-meat food.
We left the house at a reasonable hour only to be greeted by insanely strong winds as we checked out the rocky sides of a nearby reservoir. A failed attempt at an Ocellated lizard spot followed, although we glimpsed a Bedriaga’s skink after being treated to some amazing views of a squadron of Griffon vultures. Other raptors making an appearance included Short-toed eagles, Booted eagles and Black kites - plus a few suspected lesser kestrels messing about together above one of the few restaurants that served non-meat food.
That evening we returned to yesterday’s coastal spot but, as red-necked nightjars passed overhead, we didn’t manage to torch anything Natrix-flavoured in the ponds. I’ll hopefully return to photograph the frogs and toads one day, but as our minds were on snakes we didn’t examine what may or may not have been hiding amongst the Pelophylax eyeshine. We did have a couple of terrapins and an eel, the latter almost providing a false alarm.
Driving back in the early hours we passed 2 DOR snakes (horseshoe and ladder), both in close proximity to home. A brief wander along the dirt road outside the house turned up a Maria’s worm lizard (Blanus mariae) but nothing more.
Driving back in the early hours we passed 2 DOR snakes (horseshoe and ladder), both in close proximity to home. A brief wander along the dirt road outside the house turned up a Maria’s worm lizard (Blanus mariae) but nothing more.
Day 3
Would a new day bring some luck? We hoped so, as that worm lizard wasn’t quite worth the price of admission. It was windy again today, and even windier along the river valley which we checked out first. As usual, a snake shirt was present, but not the owner. A tiny bit of Google-Earthing revealed some ruins worth inspecting, but like most of the land here, it was guarded by barbed wire and private signs. An interesting path ran close by, containing snake tracks and yep – you guessed it – another shirt. This area quickly became known to insiders as Bond Street for reasons known only to the insiders.
Would a new day bring some luck? We hoped so, as that worm lizard wasn’t quite worth the price of admission. It was windy again today, and even windier along the river valley which we checked out first. As usual, a snake shirt was present, but not the owner. A tiny bit of Google-Earthing revealed some ruins worth inspecting, but like most of the land here, it was guarded by barbed wire and private signs. An interesting path ran close by, containing snake tracks and yep – you guessed it – another shirt. This area quickly became known to insiders as Bond Street for reasons known only to the insiders.
In late afternoon we split up in order to cover a few dirt roads and the main blacktop as darkness arrived. About 90minutes after sunset Jill saved the day by spotting a Ladder snake (Rhinechis scalaris) just by the side of the road. We informed the others, had a relatively quick photo session due to misbehaving cameras, and then ensured it continued its nocturnal foraging a bit further away from the road. These are such cool snakes, and with juvenile patterns so different to that of adults it’s certainly not the case of big equals better. Ours was about 80cm long, and still exhibited some faded cross-bands from its more youthful days of roaming these Andalusian lands
Day 4
We had a token peek at a coastal spot to flip some assorted trash before returning inland for some nibbles. I think this was the main point where Jill showcased her language skills by giving the waiter a friendly “Grazie”, possibly as he delivered the Andalusian rarity of a non-meat dish. We mixed a couple of local wanders with garden relaxing as we counted down the hours to a final evening exploration. Just as we were gearing up, Carmen appeared on the terrace with a surprise present, having just snaffled a delightful little Horseshoe whipsnake (Hemorrhois hippocrepis) in the corner of the garden. Snakes in the garden – if that’s not living the dream then I don’t know what is!
We returned for one last attempt at the Ocellated spot, finding another new snake shirt but no Timon. As the day gave way to another warm (but windy) Spanish evening, we strolled along Bond Street finding only snake tracks and more nightjars. A final effort was to torch some of the pools in the river valley visited previously, but the wind here was like the Northumberland coast during peak shearwater season. We returned for Tinto de Verano on the terrace trying not to think about our flight home the next day.
We had a token peek at a coastal spot to flip some assorted trash before returning inland for some nibbles. I think this was the main point where Jill showcased her language skills by giving the waiter a friendly “Grazie”, possibly as he delivered the Andalusian rarity of a non-meat dish. We mixed a couple of local wanders with garden relaxing as we counted down the hours to a final evening exploration. Just as we were gearing up, Carmen appeared on the terrace with a surprise present, having just snaffled a delightful little Horseshoe whipsnake (Hemorrhois hippocrepis) in the corner of the garden. Snakes in the garden – if that’s not living the dream then I don’t know what is!
We returned for one last attempt at the Ocellated spot, finding another new snake shirt but no Timon. As the day gave way to another warm (but windy) Spanish evening, we strolled along Bond Street finding only snake tracks and more nightjars. A final effort was to torch some of the pools in the river valley visited previously, but the wind here was like the Northumberland coast during peak shearwater season. We returned for Tinto de Verano on the terrace trying not to think about our flight home the next day.
As is usually the case these days, frustrating and comical non-wildlife observations are frequently observed at hotspots such airports, stations, cities, and generally any place where one or more people may be found. I’ll leave you with this little nugget courtesy of a group of female partygoers attempting to check-in for their flight back to Newcastle:
Check-in Lady: Sorry, but your case is 2.5kg over the limit
Partygoer drags case off scales, and as friends watch on, she removes 1 small piece of clothing and a mirror, then almost has a hernia putting case back on scales...
Check-in Lady: You’re still 2.5kg over
Other members of Team Partygoer join in now, and they begin rummaging around in the suitcase presumably seeing if they can somehow combine forces to come up with a way to make the suitcase less heavy. After 4-5 minutes have elapsed, one of them cunningly suggests “take out something heavy”
Thanks to Carmen & Euan for the hosting & trip-planning. And as usual, thanks to all for reading.
More of my wildlife photos on Instagram @northumberlandexplorer
Please also check Carmen's page at @carmenfergusonornithologist
Check-in Lady: Sorry, but your case is 2.5kg over the limit
Partygoer drags case off scales, and as friends watch on, she removes 1 small piece of clothing and a mirror, then almost has a hernia putting case back on scales...
Check-in Lady: You’re still 2.5kg over
Other members of Team Partygoer join in now, and they begin rummaging around in the suitcase presumably seeing if they can somehow combine forces to come up with a way to make the suitcase less heavy. After 4-5 minutes have elapsed, one of them cunningly suggests “take out something heavy”
Thanks to Carmen & Euan for the hosting & trip-planning. And as usual, thanks to all for reading.
More of my wildlife photos on Instagram @northumberlandexplorer
Please also check Carmen's page at @carmenfergusonornithologist