Ontario 2017
Back in January it was decided that the first trip of this year would be to Ontario, Canada, and joining Jill and I would be our good friends Rosie and Jon-Luke. We were after a bit of camping, cycling and perhaps a cabin by a lake (and of course I immediately started to research Ontario’s snake scene, which to my surprise started to look pretty promising!). After booking flights and deciding on some areas to visit, we sat back and waited for August to roll around.
After the most uncomfortable flight I have ever sat through (thanks Air Canada ‘Rouge’), we picked up a hire car, headed to Toronto for a night, then set off up north towards Parry Sound the following morning (making the first of many supermarket sweeps at Sobeys en-route). Our residence for the first week was ‘Camp Bushey’ at Mill Lake. A delightful spot where chipmunks, squirrels and birds were abundant.
During this first week we also made a two-night trip to Beausoleil Island, part of the Georgian Bay Islands National Park. This was where I was hoping to find a couple of snakes so that the others wouldn’t have to endure more searching as our trip carried on. Stopping first at Honey Harbour to pick up supplies and grab some lunch before our boat ride, the roadside provided a couple of flipping opportunities and before I knew it I was off the mark with not one but three eastern gartersnakes (Thamnophis sirtalis sirtalis).
On arrival at Beausoleil, we hired bikes and made our way over to the west coast of the island where our cabins awaited. Surrounded by forest on three sides and overlooking a small sandy beach area, this place was already looking good. Barely a minute after arrival, Rosie yelled my name from the lakeshore, prompting a mad dash over to see her discovery – an eastern hognose snake (Heterodon platirhinos)! To say I was pleased was an understatement. Rosie you superstar!
This sandy area would then go on to provide a few more garter snakes, and as daylight faded I was able to observe them taking the same route through the trees, over the sand, and then up inside a tree-trunk cavity. Seemingly preoccupied with getting to this resting spot, they were not at all bothered by my presence.
That night the barbecue was lit as loons faintly wailed off in the distance. An absolutely amazing start to my time on this island.
That night the barbecue was lit as loons faintly wailed off in the distance. An absolutely amazing start to my time on this island.
The next morning (after a quick salamander search) we took the bikes up north, finding cycling conditions tough-going given the rocky track. Before reaching our hiking destination we took a slight detour to the lakeshore where I was able to spot my first northern water snake (Nerodia sipedon) lying on a branch of a partially submerged tree. Given that this was my first encounter with the species, I of course wanted a closer look, but as soon as I attempted to creep into the water it just dropped down with a splash and was never to be seen again. Luckily, another was spotted just around the corner and I waded out for a closer look.
After leaving the bikes we took to a walking trail in the northwest, and after barely five minutes we found two massasauga rattlesnakes (Sistrurus catenatus) coiled beneath a rock ledge. After taking a couple of photos, I realised that in the excitement of spotting them I’d walked right past a third snake just coiled right in the open. How close I’d stood to this one I do not know, but I must have passed at least within a metre of it without noticing. Three massasaugas!
During the next couple of hours we encountered only one more garter snake, then the garter count just got silly when we returned via Cedar Spring, I honestly lost count. At one point I was able to sit down and observe one attempting to take down a rather large bullfrog. Our return to the west of the island provided another massasauga and yet more garters, the latter being flipped under washed up wooden debris on small sections of shoreline.
The final morning Jill and I were up fairly early, making a quick cycle-trip to a peninsula on the east of the island where Jill spotted our fifth rattler of the trip. We then added bald eagle to our bird list before finally flipping an absolute gem of a DeKay’s brown snake (Storeria dekayi).
Back at Cedar Spring we passed another garter on the boardwalk on the way to the boat. However, a couple of guys were late showing up for the ride so I had a spare 15 minutes to check the surroundings – which to my delight were occupied by a number of very large northern water snakes.
Once we had returned to Mill Lake, time was spent out on the canoes, playing badminton (great idea with the net Camp Bushey!) and doing a spot of ‘mandering when things got a bit rainy. However, I was only able to locate northern red-backed salamanders (Plethodon cinereus), much like at Beausoliel, and this would continue for the rest of the trip.
We also made a one-day excursion to Killbear Provincial Park, giving me an outside chance of adding another snake species. Hoping for an eastern fox snake (Pantherophis gloydi), Jon-Luke kicked things off with another fine garter.
Then the herping went a little cold and it seemed like our luck was out.
Then our luck returned with a nice big fox snake! Despite being about to shed, this beast was still beautifully marked and was a most welcome addition!
Then our luck returned with a nice big fox snake! Despite being about to shed, this beast was still beautifully marked and was a most welcome addition!
We reported the find to the park staff who are currently monitoring snake populations, but when they returned (heavy-footed} to the spot, it had slipped off elsewhere with only another garter to be found in the vicinity.
We then moved off to the east to Algonquin Park where camping and canoeing lay ahead. After picking up a barrel filled with an insane amount of food (which would need to be hoisted up a tree so that bears wouldn’t get their gorp-on), we paddled off south down Rock Lake, locating a backcountry camping spot towards the end of the lake.
That evening the loons were out in force, and their midnight wailings were something that I’d wanted to hear for a long time!
That evening the loons were out in force, and their midnight wailings were something that I’d wanted to hear for a long time!
We explored the local surroundings the following day, both on foot and by canoe. In the late afternoon I spent some time checking the rocks on the lake shore, finding three little redbelly snakes (Storeria occipitomaculata) under one small rock.
Encouraged by this I ventured further down the lake by canoe, stopping at sections of shoreline that looked promising and, to my delight, finding a stunning little ring-necked snake (Diadophis punctatus edwardsii) to bring the species count to eight for the trip.
However, my return to the camp proved difficult given the strong wind and my light canoe, and I was forced to hoist it on my shoulders for a few hundred yards before returning to the water’s edge to drag it along with some rope. By the time I got back a cold Steam Whistle would have been greatly appreciated, but alas warm water flavoured with orange crystals had to suffice. Jill then spotted the final garter of the trip, again happy to slowly slither right past me on its retreat to evening shelter.
Another splendid evening of star-gazing later gave way to a massive early-morning thunderstorm. I wonder if the loons liked it as much as we did.
Our final evening passed without incident, and the skies cleared to reveal the stars in all their glory once more. Brushing your teeth looking over the lake in twilight really made me think – has there ever been a bathroom with a better view?
Our final evening passed without incident, and the skies cleared to reveal the stars in all their glory once more. Brushing your teeth looking over the lake in twilight really made me think – has there ever been a bathroom with a better view?
It had now reached the part of the trip where time seems to speed up, and after leaving Algonquin (and our chance of spotting more species) behind, we found ourselves wine-tasting in Niagara-on-the-Lake and checking out the falls before our trip ended with a final two nights in Toronto.
I hope to return to North America sooner rather than later. The bears, moose and beavers managed to stay hidden, there’s still a good few(!!) snakes to add to my eight species from this trip, plus I’d really like to check in on my newly adopted team again. Go Blue Jays!
Ontario, it’s been a pleasure!
Ontario, it’s been a pleasure!
With thanks to Daniel and Nick for their Ontario advice.